Types of Lace and Techniques

The lace from Pico Island is renowned for its sophistication, delicacy and deep roots in the region’s artisanal traditions. The lace making process, involving ancient techniques passed down through generations, remains one of the greatest symbols of Azorean culture and craftsmanship.

There are various types of lace and techniques associated with Pico, reflecting the island’s natural and cultural environment, which, over the centuries, have been an important source of livelihood for local families.

Pico Lace

Pico Lace stands out as an artisanal practice that dates back to the 19th century, with significant evolution throughout the 20th century. Developed primarily as women’s work, lace production served to supplement household income, especially during times of agricultural crisis. This lace is renowned for its aesthetic beauty, combining geometric patterns and motifs inspired by the local flora, as well as for the refined technique of its makers.

CHARACTERISTICS AND UNIQUENESS OF PICO LACE

Pico lace is, above all, recognized for its lightness and the perfection of its stitch work. Traditionally made with fine cotton threads, the pieces produced by the lace makers of Pico feature a smooth texture and ornamental details that often incorporate natural symbols, such as flowers and leaves. Among the most commonly used stitches are the cord stitch, blanket stitch and “button” stitch, all essential for creating the lace’s firmness and definition.

A unique feature of Pico lace is the combination of techniques that require remarkable precision, often standing out through the integration of embroidery and the use of linen or cotton threads, where the texture and detail of the stitches are prominently displayed.

FARPA LACE AND OTHER TYPES OF LACE

Farpa Lace is perhaps the most iconic among the types of lace produced in Pico. This specific technique requires great skill and patience, as it involves creating small peaks along the piece, forming a rough and distinct texture. Farpa lace is especially used in tablecloths, bedspreads and other decorative items, and is characterized by a delicate raised texture, giving the pieces a unique and highly valued appearance.

Other types of lace include bobbin lace and needle lace. Bobbin lace uses a set of spindles that, when intertwined, create complex patterns of crossed stitches. This technique, which requires a wooden structure known as a bobbin pillow, is primarily used to create lace with geometric motifs. Needle lace, on the other hand, is made entirely by hand with just a needle and thread, resulting in finer lace with intricate patterns of flowers and geometric shapes.

DIVISION OF LACE (NEEDLE, BOBBIN)

Pico lace can be primarily classified into two major groups based on the techniques used:

Needle Lace: This technique uses a single needle to create thin and elaborate lace, often featuring floral and geometric motifs. The needle allows for more precise and detailed work, making these laces especially valued for their delicacy.

Bobbin Lace: Although less common in Pico compared to other Azorean islands, bobbin lace is still part of the local tradition. Using spindles to intertwine cotton thread, this technique is known for producing more robust pieces, yet with equally detailed patterns.

MOTIFS AND TECHNIQUES

The motifs of Pico lace vary greatly, although some patterns are repeated and are characteristic of the region. Inspired by nature and religious traditions, these motifs reflect a deep connection between the land and craftsmanship. Over the centuries, the lace makers of Pico have adapted these motifs to their needs and the preferences of consumers, resulting in a wide variety of designs and patterns.

The motifs found in Pico lace are diverse, ranging from floral and geometric motifs to figurative motifs, each inspired by elements of nature or daily life on the island.

PICO ROSES AND ROSETAS

Roses and rosetas are perhaps the most common motifs in Pico lace. These designs, which mimic flower petals, are often used to decorate tablecloths, bedspreads and other fabric items. The roseta pattern, for example, consists of a set of small, interwoven flowers that form a central, symmetrical figure. This motif reflects not only the island’s lush flora but also the religious and cultural influence present in Azorean traditions, where the rose is seen as a symbol of purity and beauty.

Floral motifs are the most iconic in Pico lace, and include:

Roses: Inspired by the rose flower, lace makers meticulously recreate the symmetry and softness of the petals. Roses are common in tablecloths and other decorative items, symbolizing purity and beauty.

Rosetas: A pattern that often forms a circular flower with overlapping petals. Rosetas are classic motifs in lace, appearing in various pieces, from curtains to altar cloths.

Four-Leaf Clover: Inspired by the plant of the same name, it is considered a symbol of luck and is recreated in small, repetitive patterns in the lace.

Each of these floral motifs is not only decorative but also carries cultural and symbolic meanings, representing harmony with nature, religiosity and fertility, which have always been an integral part of the lace makers’ lives.

Name of the Rose/Rosette	Type of Technique	Description	Characteristics	Origin
Pansy Rose	Farpa	Small and delicate, rounded petals	Symbolises perfection	São Mateus
Dahlia Rose	Farpa	Large and ornamental, multiple petal layers	Represents beauty and elegance	Lajes do Pico
Daisy Rose	Croché	Simple, witd spaced petals	Associated witd simplicity	Piedade
Marguerite Rose	Farpa	Long and tdin petals	Related to purity	Madalena
Christmas Rose	Farpa	Complex, witd intricate details	Represents festivities	São Caetano
Sécio Rose	Farpa	Small and detailed	Symbolises resilience	São Mateus
Myosotis Rose	Farpa	Small and delicate petals	Related to memory	Madalena
Passionfruit Flower Rose	Farpa	Exotic and vibrant petals	Symbolises passion	São Mateus
Strawberry Flower Rose	Farpa	Heart-shaped petals	Associated witd sweetness	Lajes do Pico
Beech Leaf Rose	Farpa	Large and strong petals	Symbolises nature and strengtd	São João
Amora Rose	Farpa	Dense and dark petals	Symbolises mystery and strengtd	São Caetano
Hook Lace	Gancho	Crochet technique used in flowers and varied patterns	Related to various floral motifs	Various parishes

OTHER MOTIFS AND TECHNIQUES

The combination of different techniques and motifs makes Pico lace one of the most cherished across the Azores archipelago, sought after not only as decorative pieces but also as symbols of a rich and living cultural tradition.

In addition to roses and rosetas, other common motifs in Pico lace include geometric shapes such as squares, diamonds and circles. These designs are often used in larger pieces, like curtains or altar cloths, blending simplicity with sophistication to create an impressive visual effect. Techniques such as satin stitch and cross stitch are frequently employed to create these patterns, and the more elaborate lace pieces can take months to complete due to the meticulous detail and care required for each stitch.

In addition to floral motifs, Pico lace features a variety of geometric and figurative motifs, including:

Geometric Motifs

Squares and Diamonds: Combining symmetry and repetition, these patterns are used to create detailed visual effects, often as decorative bands along the edges of pieces.

Circles: Frequently used in conjunction with rosetas, circles provide unity and continuity to the overall design.

Figurative Motifs

Stars: Symbolizing guidance or light, stars are integrated into some of the more complex lace designs, adding a celestial element to the pieces.

Marine Elements: Inspired by Pico’s coastal environment, some motifs depict shells, waves or other sea elements, reflecting the strong connection the lace makers have with their surrounding landscape.

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